Arriving in Copenhagen

Copenhagen is not necessarily somewhere I’ve longed to go for years and years. It’s been more of a recent fascination which turned to obsession quite quickly over the last year. Colourful houses, canals, big wide roads and bicycles in their hundreds; this city will capture your heart more quickly than you would imagine and permanently than you think. It’s the type of place you come away from seriously thinking about moving there. What can I say – they just have life sorted.

D and I made our way to the Danish capital separately. I was coming from Edinburgh (see my city guide here) and D from London. We found each other where most self-respecting foodie couples would: in Torvehallerne, Copenhagen’s trendiest indoor food hall. Let me show you around…

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They have permanent stalls selling everything you could possibly want. Smorebrod, tapas, sushi, porridge, pizza – you name it, they got it. We opted for a place called ‘Palaeo‘ which is a great healthier option with wonderfully fresh ingredients and stellar smoothies. Having spent three days consistently returning to Torvehallerne, in retrospect I may not prioritise this stall but having just hopped off the plane and with itchy feet to explore the city, Palaeo did the trick.


D’s double patty with bearnaise, spinach and almonds


My smoked salmon salad with avocado cream, baby spinach and pomegranate, served with stonebread

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Torvehallerne is set in two huge steel and glass buildings, with chunky benches and sharing tables outside. A food lover’s dream – a must not miss on anyone’s Copenhagen itinerary. Speaking of which, I plan on posting a blog for each day we were in this wonderful city and I’ll publish a more concise City Guide at the end. Sound like a plan?!


Fully fuelled (with a coffee from the best place in Copenhagen, more later) and ready to go, we tied up our laces and walked. Walked for miles! It’s a golden rule D and I – and I’m sure a lot of you – have, which is to discover any city on foot. It’s the best way to navigate and to get a good feel of a place. I’m the kind of person that needs to know where north is at all times and I orientate myself by walking everywhere. Here’s what we found on our first day of wandering…


We came across Christiansborg Palace and it’s tower, which gives a truly wonderful view over the red rooftops of the city. The buildings themselves are the seat of the Danish parliament.

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Before long we found ourselves in Nyhavn; if you’ve seen one picture of Copenhagen, it’s probably this one. Beautifully coloured houses, all slightly different heights lined up along a canal. Bars and cafés line the streets – all a bit touristy I imagine, but I can think of many worse places to have a drink! A beautiful part of town and you wouldn’t want to miss the photo opportunity, would you?

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Exhausted and overwhelmed by the beauty, we headed back to our hotel, hair tangled from the wind, feet groaning from walking and cheeks aching from smiling. Copenhagen had welcomed us with open arms, and we felt at home immediately. And to top off an excellent first day, we found ourselves dining at Höst – quite possibly the best meal of the trip. Blog post here.